New Balance 990 Series: Breaking Down the Differences
The New Balance 990 series has been the brand’s pinnacle product since its introduction in 1982. Conceived as an uncompromising running shoe with absolutely no compromises, the line has gradually transformed into a street favourite thanks to its Made in USA quality and premium materials. Now in its 40th year and sixth iteration, newcomers to New Balance 990s may have some trouble telling the variations apart. Fret not – here’s a handy visual guide to the differences between the 990v1 to 990v6 and everything in between.
Upper
The 990 series has always prized the infallible combination of suede and mesh in its default grey configuration. All models have more or less always used pigskin suede because of its soft touch and suppleness. The amount of suede on the upper has ebbed and flowed as the series advances, seemingly giving increasing preference to larger mesh panels.
The suede’s grey tones have changed between models, and while earlier editions of the 990v1 are among the darkest of the series, its contemporary reissues are more in line with its siblings. Similarly, the 990v2 has the most distinct colour-blocking, namely due to its dark grey tongue and introduction of a reflective N logo, a detail found on subsequent versions, all the way to the incumbent v6. The former detail was reprised on the 990v3, albeit with gridded reinforcement, before returning to a mesh tongue on the v4 onwards.
Mesh is a performance material, first and foremost. The 990v1 used the best of what was available at the time, and each following iteration has only improved its technical capabilities. That being said, v3 to v5 use pretty similar-looking mesh, and the v6 loosely resembles the v2. What’s changed most between models is the percentage of mesh used on the upper and lining, with a general emphasis on ventilation by using it across the toe, sides and tongue.
The 990’s Made in USA domestic production is a fact proudly displayed on the uppers of all iterations except the 990v1, which understatedly places it behind the tongue label. Callouts to the USA are placed on the front of the tongue on the v2 using embroidery, while v3 and v4 show it on both the tongue and reflective heel tab. The tongue branding on v4 and v5 share a minimalist USA flag tongue logo to highlight its origin. The v6 takes a subtler approach, opting to only write ‘Made In U.S.A.’ on the heel tab in a small font.
Sole
Being born in 1982, the 990v1 has the simplest midsole. It consists of a foam slab with a heel insert made of different-density foam to aid with cushioning and stability, plus the influential Motion Control Device (MCD) heel clip. The outsole comes courtesy of Vibram, who continue to supply their rubber for modern reissues of the model. This is the only 990 model to feature soles from a third party.
The dual-density midsole has since been a staple of versions 2 to 6, albeit with more sophisticated compounds and supplementary tech. NB added an ABZORB cushioning layer to the 990v2’s midsole, peeking out from the heel of the much more detailed midsole – it did come over 15 years after its predecessor, after all. Its outsole pattern is also considerably more complex.
The 990v3 and v4 have fairly similar midsole structures. Both feature ENCAP stability inserts that engulf the medial heel to stop feet rolling in (pronation), plus a softer foam on the lateral heel ‘crash pad’. The 990v3 has a carbon fibre midfoot shank to further aid stability, and it introduces a diamond tread pattern on the forefoot, while the heel is made from a durable rubber compound called Ndurance. While the 990v4 sheds the carbon in favour of a simpler plastic insert, it refines the diamond tread forefoot and wraps the perimeter with more Ndurance rubber.
By the time the 990v5 came around, NB embraced the ironic cool and ‘Dad Shoe’ status of their flagship product. This perhaps led to the brand skewing the model more for comfort than outright performance – not that the 990 was necessarily the top-of-mind option by this point in time. Its midsole follows the configuration of v3 and v4, but its surface is smoothened considerably. The outsole pattern is also simplified to sit flatter and lower.
As for the 990v6, NB have placed it purely in their Lifestyle category. However, there is still a healthy reverence for the model’s performance lineage, evident by the use of FuelCell foam in the midsole – a first for the series. There’s still also ENCAP arranged just like its three previous siblings. The dramatic stack height and flowing shapes lead to the most minimal outsole yet, exhibiting exposed foam and wavy Ndurance tread.
Take some time to absorb this dense information and study the pictures closely. Soon enough, the differences between all six generations of the 990 will be like night and day!
For more New Balance breakdowns, check out the differences between the 550 and 650 here.
